Take a measurement from the edge of the tooth to the miter slot at both locations. With the saw unplugged, raise the blade all the way and use the same tooth at the front of the blade (at the table), and then rotate to the rear. When you check the blade to be square to the miter slot, you can use the left slot if you wish. Your blade and fence then will end up parallel to each other and to the miter slot, which is the reference for this adjustment process. Loosen the bolts and line it up flush with the slot, tighten them up slowly and recheck. The fence must also be parallel to the right hand miter slot.
When all is good then you can wrench them down snug. Do one at a time and then recheck for parallel. This may take several attempts to get just right and go easy when you tighten the bolts back up. The amount you have to rotate it is miniscule. Loosen them just enough to rotate the carriage assembly, not so much to allow it to drop down. This assembly must be twisted every so slightly so that the blade at 90 degrees, IS parallel to the right hand miter slot.įigure out if the assembly has to rotate at the from to line up or the rear and loosen 3 of the 4 bolts that will allow it to pivot around the remaining one to line up parallel with the slot. These are held to the bottom of the saw in 4 places by bolts with star washers. The carriage that holds the arbor has trunnions that allow the whole assembly to tilt. The blade must have the same dimension front to rear to the slot.
Then rotate the blade around to the back and check to see it it just touches the same amount.
#CRAFTSMAN TABLE SAW MANUAL#
Could this add to my problems?ĭoes anyone know where I might be able to find an owner's manual for this saw?įirst check to see if the blade is parallel to the right hand miter slot by using an adjustable tri-square set to just touch a marked tooth facing right on the blade at the front. If I push the fence so that it IS paralell to the blade, then lock it down, I can see with a rafter square that the fence is then NOT square with the table.Īlso, the piece that sits on the table around the blade, that is supposed to be flush with the top of the table, is not perfectly flush with the table. It will touch the fence on the far edge, and it will be about 1/8" away from the fence on the near edge. The thing that concerns me is that when I bring the fence right against the blade, it seems like the BLADE is the thing that is off. I checked to see if the fence was sqaure/paralell with the table, and it seems to be close, though there is a little play in it before it locks down, to the point that sometimes it will line up perfectly with the miter guide channel, sometimes it will be about 1/32" or 1/16" off. Afterward, I can see that there are burn marks on the wood. With some back and forth, I can complete the cut. UNTIL I get about 8" - 10" into the cut, when I think I start to hear the blade rubbing, and if I continue the cut, the blade slows and stops. I put on a new blade with a thinner kerf, which seems to help. Also, the belt isn't slipping, and the pulleys are snugly in place.
I checked the things you mentioned, and it really doesn't seem to be electrical. Maybe it is still not puttting enough tension on the belt? I thought it might be slipping or something, so I put a little tension on the belt and tightened the mount. My thought is that either the motor is weak from old age (?) or that the blade/fence aren't paralell for some reason, so maybe it's pinching as it moves across the blade? Also, I noticed that the motor was not "locked" in place, but could move up or down, and was only putting pressure on the belt via gravity. Keep in mind I'm totally new to woodwork, so it could be user error. I could back the board out, the blade would get up to speed again, I would try to continue with the cut, and it would slow and stop almost immediately. It cut it okay at first, but about 6" or so into the cut, the blade slowed down and then stopped.
I got it home, plugged it in, and tried running a 1/2" inch pine board through it. I have had good luck with other older power tools, which I like because they are built like TANKS (my old jointer is great) and are cheap on Craigslist. Today, I picked up my first table saw - a VERY old Craftsman 100 10" model.
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